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Epidaurus, New and Old

I just love Epidaurus.  There are two parts to this coastal town: Palaia Epidavros (Old Epidaurus) and Nea Epidavros (New Epidaurus). Though mostly known for the incredible theatre at the Sanctuary of Asklepius, there is much more to experience here. Epidaurus has been inhabited since ancient times, and the evidence is everywhere, even at the Sunken City beach where one can snorkel over ancient city walls.  While the pace here is slower than in Nafplion, the resident population is large enough to support shops and tavernas offering traditional, local fare and products. The slower pace and friendly vibe made both Old and New Epidaurus a great place to spend a few days.  

 

Epidaurus is about 2 ½ hours south of Athens International Airport via the new National Road on the east coast of the Peloponnese.  There are many vacation homes in the area, if isolation is your preference during the pandemic, as well as several very good hotels offering great rates and old-style Greek hospitality.  This region has hills and mountains with pine forests, and many groves of olive and fruit trees.  Prior to the pandemic, the Municipality of Epidaurus held open-air Agrotourism Festivals each weekend in July and August where locals would come to buy and sell their local products and crafts.  This year, similar activity is seen on the waterfront, though on a smaller scale. Below are just a few suggestions.

 

Stay:

Aristotelis Hotel -  Located  in Gialasi (Yialasi), Palaia Epidavros. There are 30 large, simply furnished rooms with veranda, and most with sea view. The hotel has a pool, and the beach is just a short walk. 

 

Yialasi Hotel – Located on a hill above Gialasi beach.  14-rooms, including some apartments with kitchenettes. The views from here are beautiful, and the hospitality is traditional Greek.

The Poseidon - Located on the old harbor; many rooms with sea view. Convenient to shops and restaurants, and walking distance to Vagionia beach.

The Hotel Mike - On the old harbor next to The Poseidon; great location for a base from which to explore.

 

Eat:

Mike Restaurant, on the harbor of Palaia Epidavro. Claim an outdoor table on the waterfront and enjoy a dish of tiny fried fish or calamari, and a “horiatiki” salad.  

 

To Perivoli Tis Gogos, in Palaia Epidavro. Dine under the shade of the orange trees in this pretty garden taverna away from the harbor.  Depending on the hour of the day, spit-roasted meat is available.

 

Visit:

Ancient Theatre and Sanctuary of Asklepius at Epidaurus

This is a vast site, and best visited with a guide.  The sanctuary was established in the 16th c BCE over a bronze age site dating to 2800-1800 BCE.  During the summer, live performances are held in the Theatre of Epidaurus.

The Little Theatre of Epidaurus is a marvelous site in Palaia Epidavros that was discovered in 1970.  Subsequent renovations have entirely unearthed this second ancient theatre in Epidaurus in such a state of preservation that it was added as a venue for live performances during the annual Athens Epidaurus Festival.

 

Walk, Swim, Kayak:

The beaches in the area are typically a mix of pebble and coarse sand, though the water is clear and usually calm. Gialasi beach has umbrellas and chairs, WC, and casual eateries.

Kalymnios Beach, also known as Sunken City Beach, does not look like much from the pebbly shore.  In fact, there is not much beach here.  But, once you put on your mask and flippers and submerge yourself in the clear waters, you understand why you came.  Just a short distance from shore, foundations and amphorae dating as far back as the 12th c BCE appear. For the best experience, join a kayak tour. PanExpeditions offers Kayak Tours to the Sunken City in Epidaurus which typically include a walk to the Little Theatre and a seaside picnic.  Owner and Head Leader, Alex, is a 4-Star Sea Kayak Leader certified by British Canoe.  Also available are hiking, trekking and cycling with a guide.  

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