Monemvasia
Monemvasia is a small tied-island connected to the southeastern coast of the Peloponnese by a causeway. It is sometimes referred to as “The Gibraltar of the East” due to its strategic location and unique geography which make it appear like a floating fortress. Like Santorini and Meteora, Monemvasia is special and distinctive: there is no place quite like it.
Monemvasia has a rich history that dates back to the Byzantine era. It was an important center of trade and commerce during the Middle Ages and was a key stronghold during the Venetian and Ottoman occupations of Greece. The fortress that caps the looming rock of Monemvasia has been there for about 1500 years. The upper settlement has been long abandoned, unlike the lower town which has been inhabited in varying degrees for centuries, and is now a popular tourist destination for foreigners and Greeks alike. The structures have been beautifully restored, and thanks to the 700 foot causeway which was built in 1971, access is relatively easy. There are no cars allowed in the old town: typically, visitors park on the mainland and walk or ride with the shuttle or a taxi. Count yourself lucky if you find a parking place on the road to the Old Town of Kastro.
Today, Monemvasia is known for its picturesque architecture, stunning views, and unique atmosphere. Visitors can explore the narrow streets and alleys of the lower old town, and for those able-bodied, the upper settlement and fortress offer unrivaled vistas, medieval churches, monasteries, and fortifications.
To fully explore the town, one needs sturdy shoes and good knees as the winding medieval passageways are stone which can be uneven and worn smooth in spots. There are also many places where climbing steps is required. When booking accommodation, do inquire about the ease of access if mobility is an issue; and, be sure to hire a porter at the gate to take your luggage if you are staying deep in the Kastro: it is worth the 5-10€ gratuity.
Though beautiful year-round, the best time to visit Monemvasia is mid-April through June, and September through mid-October. In July and August when temperatures can exceed 100ºF, exploration is best done in the morning before heading to one of the local beaches on the mainland. Winter months are quiet, with only a few restaurants and shops remaining open.
Stay:
The Malvasia Hotel offers beautifully restored traditional accommodations in the old town of kastro. The Malvasia includes the Stellakis Mansion and the Ritsos Guesthouse, named for Yannis Ritsos, the beloved poet of Modern Greece whose house is now a museum in the Kastro. For those with mobility issues, the Malvasia does have a location within 300ft of the main gate.
The Theofano Art Hotel is located inside Kastro on Chrysafitissa Square, the largest open space in the Old Town. The four buildings have been beautifully restored in traditional style, maintaining much of the ancient elements.
The Moni Emvasis Luxury Suites offers a high level of service, as the name implies.
The Kinsterna Hotel is located on the mainland facing Monemvasia, the Kinsterna is named for its centuries-old cistern that dominates the courtyard. This is a special place where one can hear echoes of the Greeks, Venetians, Ottomans and Byzantines who passed through this land. The building restorations are authentic, and dining here is an experience featuring ingredients grown on the premises.
Eat:
Matoula’s Taverna in the Kastro has a some of the best outdoor seating on its large terrace. This is a great place to dine late, just after sunset, while it is still dusk. Matoula’s father was the uncle of poet Yiannis Ritsos, and if it was Ritsos that lured you to Monemvasia, then dining at Matoula’s is a must. Before Monemvasia reemerged as one of the top places to visit in Greece, Matoula and her family were among the only proprietors serving the Monemvasians.
Voltes in the Kastro serves wonderful meze (small dishes) which are meant to be shared. The ingredients are local and high quality, and the atmosphere is friendly and lively.
Sterna at the Kinsterna Hotel offers dinner in a quiet location with excellent service and high quality, elevated Greek fare. The Kinsterna has their own wine, olive oil, produce and other products, many of which are organic. For all-day dining, visit their Mouriesrestaurant which is also quite good.
Visit:
Just inside of the Main Gate of the Kastro on the left is the home and birthplace of the beloved poet, Yiannis Ritsos which is recognizable by its rose color and bust of the poet in front. Plans are to convert this important home into a museum.
Follow the main thoroughfare to Chrysafitissa Square. Here you will find the cathedral Church of Elkomenos Christos. Opposite the church is the Monemvasia Archaeological Collection, a museum which is housed in a former mosque.
The restored church of Aghia Sofia in the abandoned upper town is well worth a visit. Of the 40 churches in Monemvasia, this is the most memorable. The walk to the upper town can be steep, and so best attempted in the cooler hours of the day.
Walk, Swim, Kayak:
Portelo is the only swimming opportunity from the Kastro, and is accessed via a marked path through the walls on the south side of the fortress. There is a ladder providing easy access to the water. The sea here is clean and clear, but this is not a traditional beach experience, and not recommended for children. Swim shoes are highly recommended. (Watch this great video about the Portelo experience created by @Meanderluster.)
Pori Beach is a sandy, mile-long Blue Flag beach on the mainland just a 3-mile drive from Monemvasia.
There are loungers and umbrellas available for a small fee, and a few casual eateries.
Plytra Beach and nearby Pachia Ammos are two lovely sandy beaches about 40 minutes from Monemvasia. The waters are clear and calm, and there are sun loungers and a few tavernas and snack bars. There are ancient ruins at Plytra which can be easily viewed with goggles.
Elafonisos is a small island just 15 minutes by ferry from the mainland. From Monemvasia, it is a 50-minute drive from Monemvasia to the port. The stunning beaches here have fine sand, and the shallow, calm waters are a dazzling array of blues and greens. This is a simple beach destination with a limited number of hotels and other services: If you are day-tripping during peak season, be sure not to miss your ferry to the mainland or you may find yourself sleeping on the beach! In recent years, Elafonisos has become very popular, and can be quite crowded in July and August, and on weekends.
Kayaking with a group is an ideal way to enjoy the Myrtoo Sea that surrounds Monemvasia. Check out the 4-hour outing offered by ExploreMessinia – a great activity on a hot day.
Hiking the perimeter of Monemvasia, and then continuing to the upper abandoned town takes about 1.5-2 hours. There are group walks available hosted by locals.