Mystra and the Mani Peninsula
Mystra
Mystra, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is perched on the slopes of Mount Taygetos, close to modern Sparta. This fortified settlement was the capital of the Byzantine Despotate of the Morea, the former name of the region that encompassed most of the Peloponnese in the 14th and 15th centuries CE. The history of Mystra is a complicated web of various battles and ruling entities: Greeks, Byzantines, Franks, Ottomans. Here is also where the Byzantine philosopher, George Gemistos “Plethon,” revived Neoplatonism. The site includes dwellings, churches, monasteries and community buildings, all in varying states of preservation. During the warmer months be sure to visit early in the cooler hours of the day, and bring sturdy shoes and adequate water: there is climbing required in order to see everything. Springtime, when the wildflowers are blooming, is particularly lovely here.
Mani
Mani, located in the southern Peloponnese of Greece, is a region with stunning natural beauty, rich history, and unique cultural traditions. The villages of Mani are strewn with stone tower homes which were strategically designed to protect those inside from marauders or blood-feuding neighbors. This rustic peninsula is southeast of Kalamata, and is dotted with fishing hamlets and beaches. Here are some of the best places to visit in Mani:
Gythio has a long history, and was once the seaport of ancient Sparta. Visitors come to enjoy the beautiful beaches, historic sites, and relaxed atmosphere. It is also a great base from which to explore the surrounding area.
Areopoli - The historic capital of Mani, with traditional stone houses and narrow streets, and the nearby Museum of Mani.
Vathia - A beautifully preserved traditional tower village with unique architecture and stunning views of the sea.
Kardamyli - A picturesque coastal village with stone houses, pebble beaches, and great hiking trails. Kardamyli is a good base for exploring villages further south. The home of author and philhellene, Patrick Leigh Fermor who lived here with his wife Joan for many years, is now owned and managed by the Benaki Museum and available limited hours to tour.
Gerolimenas - A charming fishing village with a scenic harbor and good seafood restaurants.
Diros Caves - A remarkable system of underground lakes and caverns with impressive stalactites and stalagmites. There are more impressive caves on the planet, but of interest for those who have never had the opportunity to explore one.
Stay:
Mystra Grand Palace in Paleologio just outside of Mystra proper.
Mazaraki Guest House is a welcoming gem in Pikoulianika village (which has several outstanding tavernas) overlooking the site of Mystra.
Limeni Village or Ktima Karageorgou in Aereopoli at the beginning of the Mani Penninsula are both beautiful properties.
Notos Hotel - Located in Kampos, Kardamyli, about 1 mile from the center of Kardamyli.
Anniska & Liakoto is comprised of two properties in Kardamyli town.
Elies Hotel and Restaurant is a lovely property in an olive grove near a pebbly beach just ½ mile from town. The hotel and restaurant are operated by a local family with a long history of hospitality in Kardamyli.
Kyrimai Hotel in Gerolimenas is a beautifully restored 19th century property on the rocky coastline.
Eat:
Pikoulianika village near Mystra: Ktima Streka taverna, Chromata taverna
Sparta proper: En Hatipi, Kapari, Kexrimbari
Kardamyli: Kiki’s Taverna is centrally located and offers traditional home-cooking (no website).
Elies Hotel and Restaurant is just north of the village of Kardamyli. The cuisine is elevated Greek fare, and dining under the olive trees makes it even more special.
Gythio: Taverna Trata and Saga are two of several excellent tavernas on the waterfront offering fresh fish.